Less daunting but equally rewarding, Galleria Doria Pamphilj (0039 06 679 7323; open daily 9am-7pm; dopart.it) houses more Caravaggios as well as works by Breughels, Titian, Raphael and Velasquez.
The Basilica of San Clemente is a triple-decker affair with a Mithraic temple at its lowest level and the deliciously ghoulish human bone decorations of the Capuchin Crypt on Via Veneto.
