The Gander

$16

a collection of dorky brew, not for the faint of heart

Clos saron: Takeathree hour driveeast of San Francisco,and you willfind an areaknown fora'lucrative' crop other than grapes. High in the Sierra Foothills, winemaker Gideon Beinstock has created a tiny winery making a huge impression across the globe. After acheiving cult-like status making the wines at Renaissance, Mr. Beinstock has created a winery producing less than 800 cases per year. With a wide array of varietals planted to vine, Clos Saron does not stand up in stature to the typical California winery, but the purity and concentration of thefinal product would never becalled small...byanyone

Anne & Jean-françois Ganevat: Unique blends of gamay from Beaujolais and heritage Jura varietals (Petit Béclan, Gros Béclan, Geusche, Argant, Peurion, Portugais Bleu, Isabelle, Enfariné)

PierreYves Colin was the winemaker for his father's Domaine Marc Colin until 2005. He began his own domaine,firstasa micro-négociant operation, focusing on tiny quantities of thefinest wines that hecan buy. Now he has grown his domaine with the help of family holdings to 70% plots that he owns and 30% grapes he purchases. His holdings are mostly in ChassagneMontrachet (where the domaine is located) but he also produces multiple bottlings of Meursault, St. Aubin and PulignyMontrachet. Pierre-Yves has rapidly become a star in Cote de Beaune and is now considered one of the pre-eminent young producers of White Burgundy. His choice to use larger demi-muid barrels and eschew the use of battonnage, makes each one of his bottlings a clear espression of its terrior and a study in mineral-driven Chardonnay. Tasting in the Colin-Morey cellar (or anywhere you are lucky enough to have a bottle), is truly a special experience

$55 (serves four)

per piece $8, assorted $18