Special treat: The Heure Bleue Palais (00212 5 2478 3434; heure-bleue.com), on the eastern edge of the atmospheric medina, is an imposing beacon of decadence. Doubles from £240.
Mid-range: At Sofitel Essaouira Mogador Golf & Spa (00212 5 2447 9400), there’s an enormous infinity pool, spa, smart, colourful rooms, good restaurants, and a golf course. Doubles from £80.
On a budget: Hotel Riad Nakhla (00212 5 2447 4940), in the heart of the medina, is among the best cheap options, with spacious rooms, a peaceful atrium and a pretty rooftop terrace. Rooms from £22.
Head back to the medina for a final browse. Keep the wolves from the door with an ice cream at Dolce Freddo (Place Moulay Hassan).
Take in the artwork at the Galerie Damgaard (Avenue Oqba lbn Nafiaa; galeriedamgaard.com).
Get a last view of the sea with a late lunch at Le Chalet de la Plage, built in 1893 (Avenue Mohammed V; mains from £4.50), before heading for the airport.
